Rock Climber’s Paradise in Siung Beach, Yogyakarta, Java
I joined a group of rock climbers to Siung beach out of curiosity. Through approximately three hours journey from Jogyakarta, we arrived at a white sand beach surrounded by cliffs. We did outdoor rock climbing in oppose to the usual indoor climbing or wall climbing in Indonesia.
We headed directly to a shelter where climbers usually stay. It’s mbah (grandpa/grandma) Wasto’s house, Kedai Panjat Moroseneng. He built parking area, a big hall with small rooms, toilets, and warung. I heard that mbah Wasto was the first man that greeted some climbers and offered a place for them to rest.
As there are more tourists coming to Siung beach, some people established their business by following what mbah Wasto had started. Still, you would not find electricity or network service here. I think this is a perfect escape from the hectic city life.
You can feel the breeze while drinking Es Kelapa Muda. You can swim with the fish in the pristine water. You can even see the Milky Way on the clear night sky! Especially for rock climbers, this is heaven.
Siung is claimed to have 250 climbing routes! There are eleven sectors (named alphabetically) with various grade from 5.9 to 5.13b. I tried an easy route in sector D (5.10). It was a real torture for a novice like me, but if you’re a rock climber, you’ll be done in five minutes and ready for the next cliff.
Outdoor Rock Climbing Must Do Routes
According to climbers’ suggestions:
1. Kuda Laut (5.11/9 bolts), which means sea horse. It has a sea horse-like stone on top of the route.
2. Arek Soro (5.13b/6 bolts+anchor), one of the hardest routes.
3. Who Are U (5.11d/5 bolts), another hardest one.
4. Pacaran (5.9a/4 bolts), that has beautiful view of the beach and eighty meter cliffs on sector F.
5. Vertical Orgasm (5.11/8 bolts), the highest cliff, around one hundred and twenty meters height.
So, what are you waiting for? Plenty of cliffs to conquer in Siung for your rock climbing holidays!
Siung Rock Climbing Travel Guide
How to get there
Bus from Prambanan market to Piyungan then transfer to another bus to Tepus and then transfer one more time to Purwodadi. It costs around IDR 5,000 each. Proceed with ojek from Purwodadi to Siung Beach IDR 10,000 – 15,000.
Some bus drivers will offer you direct drive to Siung beach for IDR 200,000 – 250,000. If you can split the cost with your friends, that would be more convenient. If you have fixed schedule, maybe you can make an appointment for pick up. BUT, remember that you may not be able to contact them since there won’t be network service available.
Rent a car for IDR 200,000 – 250,000 per day and use GPS.
Where to stay
Mbah Wasto offers free space but you just pay for your meal of around IDR 8,000 each meal.
Or camp by the beach.
What and where to eat
If you stay at Mbah Wasto, you are lucky as they cook very good local food. The sambal is one of the best I’ve ever tasted.
If you camp by the beach, then you will have to eat your own food or buy from warung
Travel Tips
Make sure that you bring all the equipments you need. Contact a guide if necessary.
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